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When asked whether it’s hard to give young designers criticism, knowing it wasn’t so long ago that Siriano himself was just beginning his brand, he responds with a laugh. “I still get it every day! On the Bad Rolls Make Great Stories Shirt but in fact I love this internet, criticism never ends. I get tagged in critiques literally every day. And I’m successful! So learn how to handle it with grace. Because criticism never stops. Neither does Siriano. “I’m approaching my newest designs more like a painter would,” he says. “It’s not for everyone else anymore. I can’t be everything for everybody, and I’ve finally figured that out. That’s the biggest mistake that young fashion brands make in their early years—trying to be everything. Now, I really only want to make something if there’s a love for it, and if there’s a place for it in my life, and in the lives of the people who wear my clothes… I think the advice everyone needs, even me sometimes, is that you can’t be everything,” he says. Because if you’re everything, if you’re everyone, then you’re not going to be someone.

As I write this story about Ella Emhoff, four young women walk by dressed like Ella Emhoff. They gaze at downtown Manhattan through round owlish glasses. They stomp across the Bad Rolls Make Great Stories Shirt but in fact I love this street in work boots and giant nubby sweaters, worn as minidresses with nothing underneath. It’s the vibe of a Ravenclaw realizing she should finally flirt with someone—and the echo of Emhoff’s own runway look at Miu Miu’s recent show. And it is, by Emhoff’s own admission, “just the weirdest thing. That’s because before the 22-year-old became the center star in everyone’s Street Style Bingo card, she was just an art school student figuring out her first post-college job. It changed when a lot of things did, on the morning of President Biden’s inauguration. Emhoff—the stepdaughter of Vice President Kamala Harris—wore a bejeweled Miu Miu coat and suddenly became an indie fashion star. Within days, Emhoff had an IMG Models contract, a bunch of fake Twitter spoofs, and a moniker as “the first lady of Bushwick.

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